Looking for a hotel that’s “off the beaten track” but has all the mod-cons, plus English support? Iizukatei in Nakagawa-machi, Tochigi Prefecture, is worth a stay.
What makes Iizukatei unique is that you have access — through paid activity programs — to the entire town of Nakagawa, and all of the treasures it holds. The hotel and town work together to serve each guest, which is pretty nice, really. As they say, “the town is your hotel”.
Iizukatei combines luxurious finishings (and feasts) with historical decor and architecture, for a comfortable trip back in time. The staff are bilingual and go out of their way to ensure a grand time for guests: it is, in our opinion, the definition of old-school omotenashi hospitality.
Photo by Carey Finn
Named for its original inhabitants — the powerful local Iizuka family — Iizukatei is a fully renovated piece of history that dates back to the Edo period, specifically the years between 1830 and 1867. The building was registered as an Intangible Cultural Property in 2003, and opened to the public as a snazzy place to stay in 2019.
What are the rooms like?
There are different types of rooms available, at different price points. The fanciest room is the Hontaku suite, which comes with a stunning view over the traditional Japanese garden (and birds), a lounge you won’t want to leave, kitchen and twin beds.
Photo by Carey Finn
There are also two Shintaku suites, which extend almost endlessly — these are more suited to families. And then there are loft rooms in renovated storehouses called kura (which you will see all over the town) — these are cute, compact and the most budget-friendly of the lot.
Regardless of where you stay, you will find the room to be private, quiet, and removed from other guests.
Photo by Carey Finn
All rooms have an en-suite bathroom with a proper deep bath and shower. We should also talk about the hotel’s private Finnish sauna, which is just across the road. Guests can reserve 90-minute sessions, rotating between the sauna, plunge pool and relaxation room.
Dinner and breakfast
Iizukatei serves delicious, generous meals in your room, using fresh, seasonal ingredients. The meals are prepared by local chefs and set out for you to enjoy in peace and quiet, presented beautifully and tasting even better.
Photo by Carey Finn
You can expect a mix of Western and Japanese cuisine for dinner, and a Japanese-style breakfast. You will be full.
Photo by Carey Finn
What is the location like?
Nakagawa-machi is a charming town near Nasushiobara Station in Tochigi Prefecture. It’s rural, but has a lot going for it.
You can walk or bike through the streets and pop into traditional miso stores, decorate some tatami, fish and dine on the river, buy baked goods, explore world-renowned pottery, visit the Bato Hiroshige Museum of Art (designed by none other than Kengo Kuma), hike to hidden viewpoints, tuck into farm lunches, and much more. Oh, and there are also giant kakigori shaved-ice treats — do yourself a favor and get the tiramisu.
The best way to experience Nakagawa-machi is by booking tour activities through Iizukatei. Of course, you can also DIY it if you like. We recommend spending at least two nights in the town to maximize your enjoyment.
Who should stay here?
Iizukatei is great for couples and families, as well as groups of friends. If you’re in a big group, one of the Shintaku suites is perfectly suited.
The hotel is not ideal for very young kids, but older children will really enjoy it.
Photo by Carey Finn
If you are interested in the Japanese countryside or just want a relaxing break from the city, Nakagawa-machi ranks highly as a destination — and Iizukatei with it.
