Written by Jane Pipkin
Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest freshwater lake, is a natural gem that spans over 670 square kilometers. While it’s impossible to see all of it in a single day, one of the best spots to take in its beauty is Hikone. This historic city in Shiga Prefecture is just a short train ride from Kyoto.
Pro tip: Want to see Lake Biwa from somewhere different? Consider going to Nagahama or Ōmi-hachiman. Alternatively, you can see the lake from Biwako Terrace or by taking the Michigan cruise ship from Otsu Port, as part of a combo tour.
8 a.m. — Breakfast at Unir
Before heading off on your lakeside adventure, fuel up with an affordable and nutritious breakfast. There are a good selection of cafés around Kyoto Station, the departure point of this itinerary.
For a chain unique to the Kansai area, we recommend checking out Unir Coffee. The Unir – Kyoto Shop branch, which is part of Hotel Androoms, is a 5-minute walk from the station and offers one of the best-value breakfasts around.
There are three breakfast sets to choose from, with our choice being the Melting Croque Madame Morning Set. For ¥1,350, you not only get the croque madame but tofu, salad, yoghurt, juice, and coffee. In addition to the filling food, the café itself is spacious and there is a laidback atmosphere. This means you can switch off for a bit before your day of exploring properly begins.
9 a.m. — Start your journey to Hikone Station
Kyoto Station to Hikone Station (1 hour)¥1,170 one way
Now you have fueled up, it’s time to travel up to Hikone, a small port town in Shiga Prefecture. Hikone is a great access point to Lake Biwa, as it runs along the lake and offers several places of interest to explore.
Getting to Hikone Station from Kyoto Station is simple. For a direct route, take either the Special Rapid Service (for Ōmi-Shiotsu) or the Rapid Service Train on the Biwako Line (for Nagahama). These both cost ¥1,170 one way, with the first route taking 49 minutes and the second 1 hour and 2 minutes.
Bear in mind that in the mornings, the trains can be crowded due to commuter traffic. On the day of our visit, we missed two consective trains due to them being full! If you want to avoid being squashed, you may want to grab a slightly earlier or later train, or consider taking the Tōkaidō-Sanyo Line Local towards Maibara. It still costs ¥1,170, but will take over a hour.
Recommended: If you don’t mind spending a little more, you can get to Hikone Station in just 45 minutes. For ¥3,650 (with reserved seating), you can take the Kodama Shinkansen (for Tokyo) to Maibara and then transfer onto the Biwako Line Special Rapid. Then, get off at Hikone Station.
Note: The routes are covered by the JR Pass. If you have one, we highly recommend taking the Shinkansen route.
10 a.m. — Explore Hikone Castle
Once you arrive at Hikone Station, it is a 10-minute walk to our first spot: Hikone Castle. Famous for being one of Japan’s 12 original castles, Hikone Castle still retains much of its original structure — making it a valuable National Treasure.
Since its completion in 1622, the castle has survived fires and other natural diasters. Although it once belonged to the Ii family, feudal lords of the Hikone Domain during the Edo period, it was handed over to Hikone City in 1944.
Features of Hikone Castle
Hikone Castle is a prime example of traditional Japanese castle architecture. Its three-storey main keep (tenshu) is designated as a National Treasure. The castle was originally built not only as a political symbol, but also with martial purposes in mind, of course. That said, there has never actually been any armed conflict at the castle!
Other points of interest include several turrets, a time-keeping bell, and horse stable. You can also explore the interior of the castle, though it requires climbing some pretty steep stairs! For those willing to make the climb, scenic views of Hikone await.
Also on the grounds, the Hikone Castle Museum features exhibits of Noh masks, samurai armor, and other historical artifacts, while the peaceful Genkyuen Garden offers a tranquil retreat.
Hikonyan, the honorable prefectural mascot, also visits from time to time. If you want to increase your chances of seeing him, check his schedule.
The general admission fee for Hikone Castle (and Genkyu-en Garden) is ¥1,000 for adults and ¥300 for elementary- and junior-high-school students.
Note: The castle grounds are situated on uphill terrain, accessed by steep, stone pathways that lack accessibility features.
Elementary School students: ¥350
11 a.m. — Roam the Old Streets
Should you have time after walking the castle grounds, take a brisk 16-minute walk to Yume Kyōbashi Castle Road. Also known as Old New Town, this road is lined with old-style town houses, small shops, and a variety of restaurants.
If you’re feeling hungry at this point, you could stop by one of the restaurants serving Omi Beef, a local specialty. However, we do have another lunch spot further down this page.
As you walk down the road, you’ll notice many maneki neko (beckoning cat) displayed in shop windows. According to legend, Ii Naotaka, the lord of the Hikone domain during the Edo period, created the famous cat statue after a fateful encounter with a real beckoning cat at Gōtokuji Temple.
If you explore the street sides, you’ll come across another cat-related spot: The Hikonyan Museum. Hikonyan, the loyal samurai cat, is so popular that he is credited with bringing tourists to the area. At this free museum, you can see official illustrations, buy Hikonyan-themed souvenirs, and see the adorable mascot in real life.
From the beginning of Yume Kyōbashi Castle Road, it’s a 14-minute walk to our next destination: Shiga Gokoku Shrine. But first, a bite to eat.
12 p.m. — Eat lunch at Moku
While wandering around the shrine grounds, you’ll notice a wooden building. Inside is a cozy café with a rustic country vibe known as Moku (which translates to tree). As soon as you step inside, it feels like home, with the food on offer only adding to this atmosphere.
Satisfy your appetite with a healthy teishoku (set meal) or curry for around ¥1,100. Opting for the daily rice meal on this visit, we got to enjoy a plate of fresh local vegetables, a Japanese-style hamburger, rice, and miso soup. Complement your fresh food with a drink — options range from matcha milk to banana juice (¥300 to ¥650).
Note: Moku is closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday. They only accept cash.
12:30 p.m. — Wander around Shiga Gokoku Shrine
Following lunch, take some time to walk around Shiga Gokoku Shrine. This Shinto shrine honors those from the area who lost their lives in war. Many people pay tribute by both praying and visiting the Shiga Prefectural Memorial Hall for the Heroes (near to the main shrine).
On the grounds of the shrine, there are also a variety of monuments dedicated to various heroes including the warhorses, military dogs, and pigeons.
Getting to Hikone Port
The final portion of the day will be spent taking a boat cruise to Chikubushima Island — a small island on the lake. This specific cruise departs from Hikone Harbor.
To get there from Shiga Gokoku Shrine, we recommend taking a 10-minute walk back to the station and boarding one of the free shuttle buses (from Bus Stop 6, West Exit). The bus timetable aligns with specific cruise times, meaning it will get you there just in time.
If the timings are too tight, it is also possible to walk from Shiga Gokoku Shrine. It takes about 26 minutes, and while most of the walk is along pedestrain-friendly streets, some feels a bit off the beaten path.
Alternatively, you could also walk back to the station and a try to hail a taxi.
Pro tip: It is moments like this that a private transfer could come in handy. Consider a personalized tour of Lake Biwa. Though on the pricier side, your private driver can take you anywhere within the area.
2 p.m. — Board a boat to Chikubushima Island
Different cruises depart from this harbor; on our visit, we hopped on the regular Takeo Island Route — which is the one you need to travel to Chikubushima Island.
From March to November, the cruise departs four times a day, at 9 a.m, 10 a.m, 12 p.m., and 2 p.m. Timings change during the winter and seasonal events — check the individual timetables for more details.
From Hikone Port to Chikubushima, the sightseeing boat takes about 40 minutes. Along the way, you can enjoy views of Takage Island, Mt. Ibuki, and the Hira mountain range. You can choose to sit inside or on the top deck. We opted for the top deck; and while the view is beautiful, be prepared to feel the rush of wind!
A round-trip ticket costs ¥3,500 for adults and ¥1,750 for children (elementary-school age). You can buy your tickets at the port, from the information center. However, we recommend buying your ticket or at least reserving one on the official website.
2:40 p.m. — Walk around Chikubushima Island
Since ancient times, Chikubushima Island has been famous for being the “Island of the Gods” as it is home to some powerful shrines and temples. With a circumference of just 2km, you can easily walk around this spiritual island. To enter the island, adults will need to pay an additional ¥600 (¥300 for children) in cash.
Note: You get about 80 minutes to explore the island, 70 minutes if you take the 2 p.m. boat.
Hogonji Temple
As soon as you pay the entrance fee, make your way up the stone steps towards Hogonji Temple. This Buddhist temple is the 30th on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, and is famous for its Karamon Gate, a National Treasure. With its colorful carvings, peonies, phoenixes, and rabbits, it’s a sight to behold.
The temple also has a powerful history. In the 8th century, Emperor Shomu had a dream in which the sun goddess Amaterasu appeared, revealing that Chikubushima Island was a sacred site. Acting on this vision, Emperor Shomu sent the monk Gyōki to establish the temple.
Other notable features include the Kannon Hall, which houses the Thousand-Armed Thousand-Eyed Kannon Bodhisattva, an Important Cultural Property, as well as a three-story pagoda. At the Main Hall (Benten Hall), you can pick up a “Benten’s Happiness Wishes Daruma”, a special type of daruma doll inspired by the Shinto goddess Benzaiten. Write your wish on a piece of paper and place the daruma inside the hall in the hopes it will come true.
Tsukubusuma Shrine
After admiring Hogonji Temple, it’s time to see another sacred spot. Tsukubusuma Shrine is a Shinto shrine, which was originally connected to Hogonji Temple. Four main deities are enshrined at Tsukubusuma Shrine, including Ichikishimahime (Benzaiten), Ugafukujin (White Snake), Azaihime (Guardian Deity of the Land), and the Dragon God. Through these four deities, the shrine is famous for bringing luck into many different aspects of life.
Extend the luck you received from the Happiness Daruma by throwing a kawarake (clay pot) toward the Miyazaki Torii Gate, which can be seen from the main hall and is set against the backdrop of the lake. To do this, you’ll need to buy a kawarake and write your wish on it. It is believed that if the kawarake passes through the gate, your written wish will come true.
Pro tip: If you have a bit of time before your boat departs, stop by the shops near the port and try some street snacks, or pick up some local souvenirs.
4:30 p.m. — Head back to Kyoto
As mentioned earlier, free shuttle buses run between the port and Hikone Station, timed to align with the cruise schedule. Therefore, a bus should be waiting for you in front of the port as soon as you leave the boat. If you’ve traveled on the last boat of the day, be sure to board the shuttle bus immediately, as it is the final one!
Once back at Hikone Station, you can take one of the Special Rapid services (towards Himeji) straight back to Kyoto Station for ¥1,170. Alternatively, you could take the Special Rapid service to Maibara for ¥190, then transfer to the Kodama Shinkansen for ¥3,650 to reach Kyoto. If you’re planning to return around 6 p.m. on a weekday, be aware that you might encounter crowded trains.
After arriving back in Kyoto, the evening is yours to enjoy. From here, you can explore the city’s nightlife, grab some dinner around Kyoto Station, or head to your hotel for some much-needed rest.
Is a day trip to Lake Biwa worth it?
Visiting Hikone from Kyoto makes for a great day trip — especially if you want to escape the crowded streets of Kyoto for a while. As well as being easy to access, Hikone offers a slower-paced day where you can appreciate some history and the magnificant Lake Biwa.
The town itself has more of a sleepy and quiet vibe, with many of its shops being open on different days. However, if you pair it with the boat trip to Chikubushima Island (the highlight of our visit), it makes this day trip truly worthwhile.
Hikone is also a popular destination during the sakura and autumn-leaves season, so if you are looking for a livelier atmosphere, plan to visit around this time.
In our experience, having visited on a Thursday, we noticed that the town didn’t come to life until around 10 a.m., so if you do head in early, we would recommend going to Hikone Castle first, since it is open from early morning.
For more ways to enjoy Lake Biwa, check out our Lake Biwa Mega Guide.
While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.
