Eli Sooker

On the northeastern tip of Hokkaidō, Shiretoko National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site distinguished by its virtually untouched wilderness and high chance of wildlife sightings. Home to one of the densest brown-bear populations in the world, you can also expect to encounter deer, foxes, and numerous rare bird species. In fact, the northern part of the park is reserved specially for wildlife, lacking public roads and generally only accessible to researchers and local fishermen. From scenic hikes to natural hot springs, Shiretoko offers a range of budget-friendly activities for visitors who want to experience its remote paradise. Access to Shiretoko There are a few different ways to get to Shiretoko. Air By far, the quickest way to get there is to fly to Memanbetsu Airport from Sapporo or Tokyo, which takes just 1-2 hours. From Memanbetsu, you can rent a car or take a bus (, only available during the summer season) for the 2-hour trip to the national park. Important: Renting a car is recommended for greater flexibility, with rental outlets available at Memanbetsu Airport, Abashiri, and Kushiro. Bus Long-distance buses run from Sapporo to Utoro, usually at night, costing approximately for a 7-8 hour journey. Check availability. Train This is the longest way to reach Shiretoko. The closest station is JR Shiretoko Shari Station, about 40km from the park. You would travel here from Sapporo via the Abashiri Line, which takes 6-7 hours and costs around , and then take an additional bus to Utoro () for 50 minutes. 1. Shiretoko Visitor Center Shiretoko Visitor Center, your hub for the latest information and access to some of the shorter hiking trails, is a recommended first stop. Get acquainted with the area's wildlife and geography through exhibits, and check details of the latest bear sightings. You can also purchase a bear bell or rent bear spray to stay safe, and grab a good cup of coffee at the attached café. Pro tip: For stunning cliffs and sea views, don’t miss the 20-minute beginner-level hike to Furepe Falls, starting from the back of the Visitor Centre. 2. Shiretoko Go-ko (Five Lakes) Shiretoko Go-ko is one of the top attractions, offering views of five pristine lakes. Get a bus here, or pay a reasonable parking fee of . The lakes can be explored via elevated boardwalks or guided walking tours. Before entering, visitors receive a bear safety briefing, which will provide handy knowledge for any other hikes you want to do in the area. Shiretoko Go-ko is particularly beautiful in the early morning, as well as during fall -- when the foliage reflects off the lakes. 3. Natural hot springs While Japan is famous for its onsen (hot springs), “wild onsen" are hard to come by. Unlike regular onsen, where you pay to use changing rooms separated by gender, wild onsen are hot pools in their natural state -- no management or facilities built around them. Out in the open in nature, they are often free or very cheap, and offer a taste of what Japan’s very first onsen must have been like. As wild onsen are shared between genders, it is OK to wear a swimsuit if you choose to. However, don’t be surprised if you see a naked occhan (elderly man) enjoying the wild onsen without a care for who might see his private parts! Shiretoko’s wild onsen are all free. Iwaobetsu Onsen is a famous spot deep in the forest, which has both a regular onsen and wild onsen alongside each other. On the eastern coast, occupied by a town called Rausu, Seseki Onsen, and Aidomari Onsen offer scenic ocean views. Note that you will need a car to reach these two. 4. Tours through the seasons Shiretoko is known for the distinct qualities of each of its four seasons. As the southernmost place in the world to experience drift ice, Shiretoko’s winters are especially noteworthy. A great way to experience the best of this season is on a guided tour. Some even include drift-ice swimming or snowshoeing (starting at ). If you can't find any online, ask at the Visitor Center. In summer, eco tours (from ) offer insight into the area’s flora and fauna, and offer an extra level of safety for those worried about bear encounters. These guided experiences are excellent value for money, ensuring you get a deeper understanding of the park’s natural beauty, often without the high cost of solo-adventure gear rentals. 5. Cruises to see the inaccessible part of Shiretoko Boat cruises are one of the only ways to experience the untouched wilderness of Shiretoko’s northern region, otherwise inaccessible to the general public. From Utoro on the west coast, cruises range from to , with highlights including incredible cliff formations, gigantic waterfalls, and brown-bear sightings. The Rausu side offers whale-watching cruises (around ), where a diverse range of whale species can be seen, as well as small boats for those keen on close-up bear photography. For an entirely different experience, try a cruise in winter. You’ll travel through stunning ice floes to view the world’s heaviest eagle, the Okhotsk eagle (or Steller's sea eagle). Cruises can be booked online or at the offices of the various cruise companies, located throughout Utoro and Rausu. Fox and Gojira-iwa provide English websites. 6. Kamuiwakka Falls This hot-spring waterfall is one of the most remote locations visitors can access in the park, a secret hideaway in the forest. Accessible by rental car or seasonal shuttle bus ( round-trip) from July to October, a walk up the warm, gently cascading waters and a good foot soak make for a perfect way to relax. For the more adventurous, a tour for around takes you on a climb up the falls. 7. Mt. Rausu For those looking for more of a challenge, summiting Mt. Rausu is another great way to enjoy unspoiled nature for free. This hike takes around 8-10 hours round trip, and is best suited for experienced hikers. The trailhead is accessible from Iwaobetsu Onsen. Come prepared with all-weather gear -- it can be cold and rainy on top -- and don’t forget your bear bell. 8. Food and culture Shiretoko is home to a unique culture that represents a blend of its Indigenous Ainu history, local fishermen, and inflow of nature guides and other nature lovers. To explore Ainu culture, visit Minshuku Inn Ainu Shūchou no Ie. Those on a tight budget can pop into the souvenir shop here and chat with the manager, who will likely offer you a sample of Ainu tea. For a more expensive but priceless experience, stay at their onsen ryokan (traditional Japanese inn with an onsen attached), one of the few places left in Japan where you can eat authentic Ainu food. While you're exploring Shiretoko, also try the local seafood (especially the Shiretoko salmon) at Michi no eki Rausu, Hokkaido dishes such as jaga-butter, a buttered potato dish, at Bon's Home, and jingisukan (lamb) at Fox Café. We also recommend heading to Pirika for a pizza and a jolly night of drinking and mingling with the locals. Shiretoko National Park FAQs When is the best time to visit Shiretoko? It depends on what you like. Some people recommend visiting in the spring, when the weather is cool and good for hiking. Winter is popular because you can experience walking on the drift ice. Autumn is also a great time to experience the fall foliage. Can you camp at Shiretoko? Yes! The Rausu Onsen Campsite is open from mid-June until September 30. All campsites have their own fire pit, and the 24-hour Kumanoyu Onsen is nearby. The National Shiretoko Campsite is also available in the Utoro area. What does Shiretoko mean? The word Shiretoko comes from the Ainu phrase "siretok". Translations include "place where the earth protrudes", and "end of the earth." While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.

Eli Sooker

Wild Japan: What To Do in Shiretoko

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