Written by Lily Crossley-Baxter
Researched by Jane Pipkin
A little scruffy but entirely enchanting, the streets of Shinsekai, Osaka were designed with the future in mind, but are full of the charm of years gone by. Located across the park from Tennoji, it is home to kushikatsu, the iconic Tsutenkaku Tower and much more.
Now attracting as many tourists as Dōtonbori, Shinsekai is the perfect place to explore the older side of Osaka — despite it once symbolizing the future. A throwback to the 1980s, it’s full of independent shops run by families for generations. Strolling through its streets reveals a side of Japan that feels forgotten, yet deeply nostalgic.
Pro tip: See the best of Shinsekai by booking a tour with a foodie guide.
The history of Shinsekai: Theme parks from the future
Designed in 1912, the north half of the city was modeled on New York and the south half on Paris, reflecting the growing interest in the influence of the West. It was the futuristic model of what cities should be, with the Tsutenkaku Tower becoming a focal point for progress as the highest tower in Asia at the time. Nearby, the Luna Park amusement area was constructed and was originally connected to the tower by an aerial tram. Tennoji Zoo opened in 1915 and the area flourished, with visitors traveling from across the Kansai region.
Unfortunately, it soon began to fade and the area was forgotten. The park closed in 1923 and the area was neglected, with the tower burning down in 1943 and the remaining steel being used for the war effort. As the area and its reputation deteriorated, there was a short boost following the war as a new tower was finally constructed in 1956.
Recently, there has been an active effort to make Shinsekai into a more tourist-friendly hotspot by adding new attractions as well as new eateries. These days, you can see many people taking photos of the colorful buildings that frame Tsutenkaku Tower and finding food spots to try local food.
That reputation: The good, the bad and the sketchy
The area is unique: having been neglected for decades and once considered the wrong side of Osaka’s neon tracks. Today, like taking a trip back to the 1980s, you can dine in restaurants handed down from generations past and enjoy the aged street decor, although most of the original buildings have long since disappeared.
There is more crime than most areas and it is considered one of the most dangerous parts of Osaka (although keep in mind it is a dangerous area for a safe country, so you may be used to worse). Despite this, you might want to keep a closer eye on your stuff (and yourself) and watch where you wander at night. Generally, though, this reputation comes from the high level of organized crime that took place before the 1990s.
Famous food: Kushikatsu
Between your explorations of the Shinesekai streets, there’s one must-try food that is forever linked to the area — and luckily it’s delicious as well. Kushikatsu is a simple dish — pieces of skewered meat, seafood, and vegetables coated in batter and breadcrumbs and then fried, served with a special tonkatsu dipping sauce and fresh cabbage.
While it may not be the height of fine dining, it is a time-old tradition here. It can be enjoyed at any of the countless standing fast-food-style counter restaurants or at some of the izakaya-style spots. Meaning skewers (kushi) and deep fried cutlet(katsu), it is a great snack or fun meal as it goes very well with beer.
The famous chain Kushikatsu Daruma has a branch in Shinsekai. Other recommendations include Kushikatsu Shinsekai and Kushikasu Ittoku Hozenji.
Sightseeing in Shinsekai
The area is perfect for wandering, with alleys and shotengai (shopping streets) offering an insight into the more traditional daily life of Japan. Enjoy the old-fashioned adverts, sumo-themed restaurant walls and impressive graffiti — often covering the rusted shutters. With pachinko parlors, coffee shops and vintage arcades, it’s easy to while away an afternoon.
Shopping arcades
The perfect place to explore, the shuttered stores of the old-school shopping arcades contain a whole world of old-fashioned entertainment. With pensioner-packed Mahjong cafés facing brightly colored fairground game stalls, it is an unusual combination of young and old. You’ll find a mix of barbershops, kissaten coffee shops, and bargain stores, with vintage fashion stores, health shops, and more slotted in between.
Two of the main places you should wonder down are Shinsekai Market and Janjan-Yokocho. The first is home to a bunch of old local businesses selling food, jazz records, and a lot of leopard print. You’ll even find some cozy Yatai (food stalls) tucked in. Janjan-Yokocho has a similar vibe but is mostly filled with restaurants. You’ll also spot local souvenirs and the famous Kasuga Gorakujo, a retro games arcade.
Shinsekai is also home to many guesthouses and hostels, bars, a small cinema, and a traditional theater. We recommend heading to the Pax Hostel, which has a cozy café with a record wall, a slide, and fresh-tasting banh mi. It’s also a great place to meet other tourists. Sometimes, you might even stumble across creative pop-up shops — our writer once wandered into a shop devoted to an octogenarian’s carefully crafted images of jazz-inspired cats.
As well as the old, you will find a few contemporary tax-free souvenir stores to get your keyrings and packaged snacks. Other notable stores include the Umaibo store, a specialist knife shop, and a denim jeans shop.
Tsutenkaku Tower
¥1,200 for adults and ¥600 for children (observation deck only)Buy tickets here
Although we have covered a little of the history of this tower, it remains an important symbol of the area, but also of Osaka as a whole. The name means ‘building leading to heaven’ and was chosen by Fujisawa Nangaku, a Meiji-period Confucian.
Built in 1912 and based on the Eiffel Tower with a base designed after the Arc de Triumph, it was the tallest structure in Asia, but was not destined to last (see the black and white photo above). Burned and scrapped for the war effort, it was rebuilt in 1956 at 104m — nearly 40m taller than the original but without the impressive base. It has since been registered as a Tangible Cultural Property and has a variety of attractions within.
In recent years, Tsutenkaku has added a steel slide, an open-air viewing platform, and a “Tower Dive and Walk” for more adrenaline-fueled visitors. All of this, plus the observation deck, makes it the most popular (and thus busiest) tourist attraction in the area.
Children: ¥600
Billiken
Originally located in Luna Park, Billiken is another reminder of Shinsekai’s golden times — quite literally. As the god of ‘Things as They Ought to Be’, he is a fitting figure for an area that has come to accept its place trapped in a time gone by.
Although resembling another traditional religious figure, he was originally invented by American teacher and illustrator Florence Pretz in 1908 after seeing the vision in a dream. A wooden statue was featured at Luna Park as a symbol of Americana, with popular souvenirs designed around him — but the statue went missing when the park closed in 1923. A replica was placed in the tower in 1980 and was even featured in a film where his return was used to restore the area to its previous levels of popularity.
Billiken statues are scattered all throughout the area. There is even a Billiken Shrine which has its very own red torii gate. Although you can rub the feet of any of them to wish for good luck, many go to the large Golden Billiken statue half way down the main street.
Pro tip: Stop by Coconchi, near Tsutenkaku Tower, to try a delicious Billiken-shaped taiyaki!
Spa World
¥2,500 for adults and ¥1,500 for children (weekend rate)
A pretty amazing way to spend a rainy afternoon in Osaka, Spa World is like an onsen theme park with two sections: an Asian zone and a European zone. Alternating each month, they are divided by gender but there’s also a mixed pool area where couples and friend can meet up. Swimsuits are only worn in the mixed areas and traditional onsen etiquette is required throughout.
There are themed pools in each zone, like the Finnish Sauna House and Grotto Azura, as well as the Persian Palace bath and a Bali-styled area. Don’t worry, there’s a Japanese outdoor bath and a cypress bath too if you’re keen to experience the Japanese onsen experience.
The park also has a no-tattoo policy. While subtle tattoos can be covered if you use plasters or carefully placed towels/hair (tried and tested), you may not want to risk it with larger ones as there are plenty of staff throughout the facility.
Note: You’ll have a wristband after entry and can pay for drinks, massages and food with it — so keep an eye on your total!
Elementary School students: ¥1,500
Shinsekai FAQs
Is Shinsekai worth visting?
Yes, definitely. Shinsekai has a distinct charm compared to other areas in Osaka. From the landmark Tsutenkaku Tower to retro cinemas, there’s plenty to see and do. It also offers a glimpse into local culture in Osaka.
How long should you spend at Shinsesaki?
A few hours or an afternoon is the perfect amount of time to explore Shinsekai. While the area is generally safe at night, we recommend visiting during the day if you prefer to play it safe. There are even a few hotels, hostels, and Airbnbs if you want to base yourself here during your stay in Osaka.
While we do our best to ensure it’s correct, information is subject to change.
